Stone Farm Rocks in Sussex

Stone Farm Rocks

Stone Farm Rocks is one of the more popular sandstone sites. It offers a peaceful and picturesque setting for climbing. The Outcrop is set atop a hillside and spans 200 metres in length. Overlooking Weirwood Reservoir and Ashdown Forest makes it the perfect location on a sunny day. Due to being on top of a hill and little vegetation sections of the crag are fast drying, however as you move down the crag drying time increases due to more foliage.

Climbing

The quality of rock at Stone Farm is generally poor due to years of abuse (overuse of brushes, careless climbers as well as chipped holds) and a high footfall through the site. This has resulted in poor holds, (especially footholds) and popular routes being worn smooth. Stone Farm has a variety of climbs and boulder problems and is a good location for beginners as it offers some easier climbs. Grading varies from 1a to 6c with some climbs often feeling harder due to the worn holds. There are some good traverses along the base of the rocks. Height of the climbs here is shorter with the highest climb being around the 6m mark. Some great routes include Stone Farm Crack (4b), Curling Crack (4a) and Pinnacle Buttress (5b).

History

Stone Farm Rocks are listed as a spot of Special Scientific Interest under the name of Stone Hill Rocks. Little is known about the history of Stone Farm Rocks including its early ownership and usage. The Forestry Commission for the Gravetye estate owned the rocks up until 2001 when they were sold for £100 to the BMC.

Access

Stone Farm Rocks are located near to East Grinstead on the west side of Tunbridge Wells. They are near to and overlook Weir Wood Reservoir. The path to access the rocks is opposite the house on West Hoathly Road. Walk approx 100 metres down the path and follow signage to the rocks. Stone Farm Rocks can be accessed after a half-hour walk from Kingscote Station on the Bluebell Railway.

Parking

At the junction with Admirals Bridge Lane, there is a road that leads towards Weir Wood Reservoir. There are 6 spaces for cars to park on this road and if you follow it there is a small car park. From the car park, it takes approx. 10 minutes to walk to Stone Farm Rocks. Please ensure you park safely and do not block traffic or the entrance to the private house. Stone Farm gets very crowded and parking can be limited.

Notes

Due to erosion, bolt belays have been added to the top of most climbs and the BMC has begun work to repair the worst of the erosion. There are no bolts above Stone Farm Crack and Pine Buttress, the rotten tree stump has to be used for a belay - caution is advised! There has been some cement work completed here due to erosion. Use a non-stretch belay sling and position the karabiner over the edge of the crag when top roping to reduce erosion. No local amenities.