Eridge Green Rocks climbing
Eridge Green Rocks are set in semi woodland. Eridge is less popular than sites like Harrisons or High Rocks but still has a lot on offer. Eridge Green offers a great spot for some morning climbing. It is one of the wilder, more adventurous sites with no bolts in situ and plenty of vegetation including rhododendrons and a host of rare ferns, mosses, lichens and liverworts. It is classed as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and climbing is banned in certain areas to protect the rock and rare plant life. Well worth a visit especially if you like to get ‘back to nature’, but please take care when climbing here and respect the Eridge Agreement. To download a copy please click here.
Climbing
Eridge faces east and is generally less eroded than other more popular sites, however, the rock quality is variable and the crag tends to be fragile in places. Eridge Green is best climbed in the morning during the spring and autumn. If you get too hot this is one of the cooler places to climb in the summer. Grading varies from 1a to 6c and ¾ of the climbs are above a 4a. The highest climbs are approx 10 metres. There are some green areas, but a lot has been done to clear climbs and open up the rocks making it drier. Saying that there are still climbs affected by overgrown vegetation. Popular climbs include Hanging Crack (5a), Prowess (6b) and Battlements Crack (5a).
In addition, Eridge provides some great bouldering problems including The Leaf (6a-6b), Nightfall (6c-7a) and Judamondo (6c-7a). As stated in The Eridge Agreement, climbing is allowed from Heffalump to Dr Kemps Cure, from Sandstorm to More Cake for Me and from Dusk Crack to Tower Girdle. Please consult a guidebook if you are unsure. Also, restrictions are clearly defined on notice boards in the car park. You may not climb outside of these areas. Not adhering to this agreement may result in a total climbing ban so please be respectful of the guidelines in place.
History
Eridge Green Rocks lie in a nature reserve, they are classed as an SSSI and owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust. Eridge has been closed to climbers in the past, however, an access agreement has been drawn up allowing climbing in permitted areas. Eridge Rocks was previously a part of the Marquess of Abergavenny’s estate. Access Eridge Green Rocks is located in Eridge Park.
Parking
Eridge Green Rocks are located 3 miles south-west of Tunbridge Wells and are near Eridge Church. Turn down the narrow lane near the church, drive past a row of houses and you will find yourself in the car park.
Notes
Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. There are no bolts in situ. The use of chalk is forbidden from 'Sandstorm' to 'More Cake for Me' inclusive. Please use chalk elsewhere as little as possible. Chalk changes the PH of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. Please note that many of the belays require a second full length rope rather than just a sling, as the top of climbs are rounded, please take precautions to prevent damage to the rocks. Do not remove any greenery.
