Eridge Green Rocks

Eridge Green Rocks

Eridge Green Rocks are set in semi woodland. Eridge is less popular than sites like Harrisons or High Rocks but still has a lot on offer. Eridge Green offers a great spot for some morning climbing. It is one of the wilder, more adventurous sites with no bolts in situ and plenty of vegetation including rhododendrons and a host of rare ferns, mosses, lichens and liverworts. It is classed as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and special care is required to protect the rock and rare plant life.

Unfortunately the crag experienced a large amount of damage to the rock and all climbing was banned. Following negotiations between the BMC and The Sussex Wildlife Trust climbing has been reallowed in specific areas as follows:

Permitted Area 1 – Close to You to Thin Layback

Permitted Area 2 – Mosquito to More Cake for Me, 

Permitted Area 3 – Yew Crack to Fandango 

Permitted Area 4 – Optical Racer to Portcullis inclusive. 

Eridge Rocks should only be visited by experienced sandstone climbers who can climb in biological sensitive climbing environments and are able to undertake advanced levels of delicate climbing techniques, rock protection methodology and have a full awareness of the climbing restrictions and the Southern Sandstone Code of Practice.

Climbing

Eridge faces east and is generally less eroded than other more popular sites, however, the rock quality is variable and the crag tends to be fragile in places. Eridge Green is best climbed in the morning during the spring and autumn. If you get too hot this is one of the cooler places to climb in the summer. Grading varies from 1a to 6c and ¾ of the climbs are above a 4a. The highest climbs are approx 10 metres. There are some green areas, but a lot has been done to clear climbs and open up the rocks making it drier. Saying that there are still climbs affected by overgrown vegetation.

Please consult restrictions that are clearly defined on notice boards in the car park and wooden posts installed to help identify permitted areas.. You may not climb outside of these areas. Not adhering to this agreement may result in a total climbing ban so please be respectful of the guidelines in place.

History

Eridge Green Rocks lie in a nature reserve, they are classed as an SSSI and owned by The Sussex Wildlife Trust. Eridge has been closed to climbers in the past, however, an access agreement has been drawn up allowing climbing in permitted areas. Eridge Rocks was previously a part of the Marquess of Abergavenny’s estate. Access Eridge Green Rocks is located in Eridge Park.

Parking

Eridge Green Rocks are located 3 miles south-west of Tunbridge Wells and are near Eridge Church. Turn down the narrow lane near the church, drive past a row of houses and you will find yourself in the car park.

Notes

Climbing by organised groups is not permitted. There are no bolts in situ. The use of chalk is forbidden at Eridge Green. Chalk changes the PH of these acid rocks and can seriously damage the lower-order plants. Please note that many of the belays require a second full length rope rather than just a sling, as the top of climbs are rounded, please take precautions to prevent damage to the rocks. Do not remove any greenery.